everyone i'm sure has their own opinions on certain food critics. reichl chronicles her shape-shifting stint as the dining critic for the Times, when she donned wigs and took on completely different personalities to try to preserve her anonymity in the cutthroat new york restaurant scene. definitely illustrates the theatre of the 'scene' as she describes becoming these characters, and trying to experience Daniel as one of the bourgeoise.
it really is quite a skill to be able to discern squid ink in a dish, or to recognize that a lamb dish sauce has been thickened with blood.
the language she uses... now i guess it seems eye-rollingly over the top, since any yuppie yahoo now extolls the decadence of truffle oil. see bruni's annoyance at that profulgation...
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