i like this guy. there is an article in the new yorker on gordon ramsay that i think really shovels through all his screaming and ranting and really hits on his food.
bruni gave him only two stars in the times; for the most part because he thought the food was boring... the interior of Gordon Ramsay in the London is white on white and the dishes had the slow-calm of walking through a cloud of dry ice, the complete opposite of the firey underworld of Hell's Kitchen that we all know and love/hate.
buford in the new yorker explains this quite incitefully, saying that for all of ramsay's torments, he finds solace on the plate and in the taste of his food, even though getting there is laced with so many vulgarities.... what matters is what goes into your mouth not what comes out of his.
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